1

Mow high. By mowing your lawn high, you prevent weeds and discourage insect pests. Cut grass at a height of 6–8 cm or 2.5–3 inches.  Never “shave” your lawn. Long grass stalks are stronger, prevent the emergence of weeds, cover the roots, prevent the drying out of the soil, and increases the longevity and the strength of the roots which protect the ground against dryness and parasites. Mow the lawn regularly, never cutting more than one third of the length of the stalk at a time. Sharpen the blades of your lawn mower to prevent tearing the grass, which makes it more vulnerable to disease. Do not mow grass when it is wet.  Mow in the evening or when it is cloudy.

2

Compost. Leave grass clippings where on the ground as mulch. This reduces the need for fertilizer by 30% in humid weather, or if the grass is very long, compost the leftovers. Grass should be dry before composting.  If you are “detoxifying” a formerly chemically treated lawn, wait a year before applying mulch to prevent it from thatching.

3

Water deeply. Apply approximately 1 inch of water twice a week, except during drought periods, ideally before 8:00 am.  Put a container under the sprinkler and measure how much time it takes for an inch to accumulate. This will help you determine how often to move the sprinkler. Frequent light watering wastes water and causes the appearance of superficial roots.

4

Control weeds and insects with ecological methods. A healthy and well-maintained lawn can withstand most weeds. Watch damaged or exposed areas – which invites weeds – treat them immediately by eliminating the cause, such as dense circulation, and overseed as needed (see step 9).  Pull scattered weeds out by hand. For persistent regrowth, have your soil professionally analyzed by a nursery or buy a kit.  The ideal pH of soil varies between 6.0 and 7.0.  Add lime to raise the pH or sulphur to lower the pH in order to improve the availability of organic nutrients and the reproduction of beneficial micro-organisms.  Avoid chemical pesticides, which are ineffective and harmful to the health of humans, animals, and the environment. A dousing with soapy water in warm weather effectively checks most insect pests.  More than 90% of insects living in your lawn are beneficial.  A healthy lawn can tolerate some parasites without danger of deterioration.

5

Rake. Gently remove the thatch (the compact layer of dead grass and debris which prevents water from reaching the roots) with a rake in late spring or early summer - not too soon after the thaw, when the grass is still spongy, or the roots could be damaged and mouldy, and become prone to the germination of weeds.

6

Fertilize in spring. Some people think this step is pointless, and some specialists recommend to fertilize only in the fall (see step 10).  However, if you want your grass to be healthier and more resistant to parasites, apply, in mid-May, a 100% natural granular fertilizer appropriately diluted (instead of a super-soluble chemical fertilizer that leeches the natural nutritive elements from the soil, damages the soil and the grass, and can provoke disease that then requires the recourse of chemical pesticides). Among the recommended organic fertilizers, including compost, manure, mineral fertilizers (rock powder, lime), bone meal or blood, sea weed, corn gluten, etc..

7

Aerate. By mechanically removing the plugs of soil and thereby reducing the compacting of the soil, you increase its capacity to retain water and improve the circulation of air to the roots. You should aerate your lawn in June or in autumn, as this avoids the germination period of most weeds which could grow in the holes.  Rent a lawn aerator from a nursery or call a lawn care specialist.

8

Spread compost on the surface. Although it is preferable to do it after aeration, you can spread compost any time between mid-June and the end of August.  If you don’t compost your own, you can buy cow or sheep manure.  Spread about 100 lbs for every 1000 square feet of surface area.

9

Overseed. You can get excellent results by combining the steps of aerating and composting.  Damaged and exposed areas are particularly vulnerable to the invasion of parasites.  Work the soil, spread the compost or the peat, spread the grass seed, work it in well, and water.

10

Fertilize in autumn. It’s a crucial step, as it nourishes the soil. If you fertilize only once a year, do it in the autumn. Use one of the organic fertilizers mentioned in step 6 for the next season.